Visitors Up Close with Kilauea Lava Flow

The saga of the Kilauea Volcano lava flow continues. Last year, the lava flow changed direction, flowing further east and through more remote areas - unfortunately preventing the general public from viewing the geological phenomenon. Since then, the lava flow threatened the edge of a few austere housing communities, but for the most part remained hidden from public view. But, in the last several days, the dynamic conditions changed yet again as the lava flow made a turn and presented a wonderful opportunity for tourists and locals alike to view the active lava flow's ocean entry - where the rivers of lava flow into the ocean resulting in plumes of steam, hissing of super-hot lava mixing with the roaring ocean waves.

Excerpt from KGMB Channel 9:

For some it was a once in a lifetime event, seeing lava flow into the Pacific Ocean from the Kilauea volcano. Saturday was the first time, visitors could legally get this close to the spectacular view. Big Island County opened a new viewing area or the public, and its just a quarter mile away from where the lava hits the sea.

Excerpt from KPUA AM670:

Viewing area to see lava flow opens
By Associated Press
HONOLULU (AP) _ A viewing area allowing people to see lava from Kilauea volcano flow into the water has opened. The site is accessible by a half-mile pedestrian trail and is a little more than a quarter mile from where the lava meets the sea. Officials expect hundreds of people to visit the site, which is the first way to legally see lava from the ground or watch it enter the sea since last June. State, county and federal officials say they will meet each morning to decide whether the lava flows threaten visitors and need to close the viewing area. Civil defense officials say they will have security at the site to prevent people from going there after hours. The site is open from 2 to 10 p.m.

This was the best re-cap of of how to view the latest lava flow:
Excerpt from the Honolulu Advertiser (3/7/08)

HILO, Hawai'i — Lava completed its trip down the slopes of Kilauea volcano and has begun flowing into the ocean, and Big Island officials braced for an expected surge of people visiting the remote Puna coastline to see Madame Pele's handiwork.

The area around the lava flow is still closed to the public, but state and county crews are expected to finish improving about two miles of rough access road today to provide a safe route to trails and observation points where spectators can see the lava.

A blessing and opening of the improved road and turnaround point are scheduled for tomorrow at 2 p.m., according to Big Island Mayor Harry Kim.

After inspecting the scene yesterday morning, Kim told his staff the latest flow offers a fascinating opportunity for visitors to view lava, but also poses risks.

The area has little or no cell phone service, almost no facilities and it will be easy for newcomers to become disoriented as they hike to get closer to the ocean entry, Kim said.

The visitor turnaround is being built in a forested area that was bypassed by previous flows, and another risk is that new fingers of lava could extend from a flow upslope of the access road and enter the old-growth area, starting fires and causing methane explosions as the lava reaches the vegetation, said Jim Kauahikaua, scientist-in-charge of the Hawaiian Volcanoes Observatory.

"There is a certainty of more fingers," and scientists will closely monitor the widening flow activity mauka of the improved road, Kauahikaua said. "It's expanding, so it will go east and west."

The lava began entering the ocean late Wednesday or early yesterday morning.

Kauahikaua said the pahoehoe flow is rapidly coating a bench extending off the coast, and is blasting steam into the air as it touches the seawater. He said there is a good chance a second finger of lava will continue downslope and by Saturday also will reach the ocean.

"It's really quite a spectacular sight, a lot of lava going into the ocean," he said.

ACROSS ROYAL GARDENS

The lava flow's passage through the Royal Gardens subdivision prompted Civil Defense to evacuate about five people from the area Monday as the flow threatened to sever an access road that the county built for lava viewing in 2001.

That road was cut Tuesday evening, and now state and county crews are working on a new turnaround further east to allow people to get close to the lava viewing area.

The flow passing through Royal Gardens offers the most accessible lava viewing opportunities from the ground in many months, and county officials expect 1,000 or more visitors a day will head for the new viewing site once it is opened.

Ted Miller, construction and maintenance superintendent for the state Department of Transportation's Highway Division on the Big Island, estimated the improvements are costing the state about $100,000.

More than a dozen state workers were operating graders, backhoes and other equipment to prepare the access road, which is made up of remnants of the old two-lane Highway 130 that was severed repeatedly by lava. The highway remnants are connected by narrow passages cut through lava that covered the highway.

The crews are improving the two-mile route, and adding a turnaround that will double as a helicopter landing area in emergencies, Miller said. Cars can park on the shoulder of the paved stretch, he said.

Traffic may be slow because the links between the paved areas are only one lane wide, forcing motorists to pull over to let one another pass, he said.

MAKING PEOPLE 'HAPPY'

The county in 2001 charged a toll for people who used a similar access road to get to the flow, and Kim said he may impose a similar charge again to recoup the cost of roadwork. Initially, however, there will be no charge to use the road, which will be open from 2 to 10 p.m.

"I think Madame Pele has given us a tremendous opportunity to admire her creation," Kim said.

"Even if this stops one day after it started, we're going to make a few hundred or a few thousand people happy," Kim said. "We're going to make a lot of people experience things that they've never even dreamt about."

Gov. Linda Lingle is expected to survey the flow tomorrow morning from a Hawai'i National Guard helicopter.

Lava Flow Moves Towards Subdivision

Below are news excerpts from Big Island lava flow updates.

Summary: Kilauea's lava flow on the Big Island of Hawaii changed direction in the fall of 2007, shifting towards the south east of its previous track. Instead of the southerly flow from the Pu'u O'o vent with some surface flows and a dominant ocean entry, the lava flow shifted east of Pu'u O'o in the direction of the nearly abandoned Royal Gardens Subdivision. The lava was in a virtual stalemate until 1/11/08 when it began to flow in a "threatening" manner directly towards that subdivision. When a long, relatively fast lava flow headed toward Royal Gardens subdivision on Jan 11th, a radio announcement by Hawaii County Civil Defense called it a "threat."

1/12/08 Update
A lava flow on the Big Island has stalled about one-half mile from a mostly abandoned subdivision. But it still threatens one remaining resident. The lava pouring from Kilauea Volcano was expected to reach the Royal Gardens subdivision late Thursday night or early yesterday. According to the U.S. Geological Survey's Hawaiian Volcano Observatory the flow now threatens only the upper part of the subdivision, which has one permanent resident. The observatory's Web site says Hawaii County Civil Defense is dealing with the threat. Over the years, lava from the eruption that began in 1983 has inundated the subdivision, which originally had more than 1,800 lots. [source - KUA.net]

1/11/08 Update
Lava broke out of a holding pattern on Kilauea's East Rift and headed downslope yesterday toward the only two inhabited houses anywhere around, three miles to the southeast in Royal Gardens.

The only two people living in the remnants of the subdivision overrun by lava many times before, two bachelors, shrugged it off.

"I'll get worried when I feel the heat," said bed-and-breakfast owner Jack Thompson.
Dean Schneider, who lives a half-mile away in the sprawling, mostly abandoned subdivision, declined an offer of help from a Hawaii County Fire Department helicopter.
Geologist Tim Orr said the lava could follow a natural contour and miss both houses.

Read the full Honolulu Bulletin article here.

Aloha Festivals Royal Courts Investiture

The Aloha Festivals Royal Court Investiture (Ka Ho'ola'a O Na Ali'i) was held on on Aug. 25 2007, at high noon at Halema`uma`u Crater, believed by some native Hawaiians to be the home of Pele. The Ali`i (royal monarchs) will be adorned with their reigning symbols of royalty to the sounds and sights of ceremonial chants and hula. This festival is held on the last Saturday in August every year at the Halema`uma`u Crater in the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park.

Below are some photos of the ceremony including the arrival of the Royal Court, traditional hula dancing, historical re-enactment, and the playing of ceremonial musical instruments.

Kilauea Lava Flow Update (Aug 2007)

Excerpt from CBS News:

Kilauea National Park, Hawaii - Lava poured down the side of Mount Kilaueaon on the "Big Island" of Hawaii on Tuesday as a new phase began in the 24-year eruption of the Kilauea volcano.

The nearby Kahaualea Natural Area Reserve has now closed to the public. Lava erupted from a fissure system about 1/2 to 3/4 of a mile in length and was pooling in ponds about 50 feet high and a couple of hundred feet across.

The State Department of Land and Natural Resources said molten rock had caused three of the ponds to overflow, posing a danger to the public.

Toxic fumes were also being emitted by the volcano, the department said. The natural area reserve was established in 1987. It covers more than 16,000 acres. Kilauea volcano, on the southernmost Island of Hawaii, is one of the most active on Earth. It sits on the southeastern side of the Big Island of Hawaii, resting on the flanks of its larger neighbor volcano Manua Loa.

Kilauea stands just under 4200 feet tall at its highest point.

The current eruption of Kilauea, known as the Pu`u `O`o Eruption, started in January 1983. In the process, lava flows have destroyed 181 houses and the National Park visitor center. There are no signs that the current eruption is slowing or will come to an end any time soon.

Drive to the Mauna Kea Summit

Peaking at an elevation of 13,796 ft MSL, you can see the majestic Mauna Kea volcano from almost any point on the Big Island of Hawaii. Often in the winter, Mauna Kea will receive snow fall. The sight of a snow-capped volcano in the backdrop as you lounge on a sunny Kohala beach is truly spectacular. My favorite view is from the higher elevations of Waimea, with its green pastures and rolling hills in the foreground, and towering volcano in the background.

Although it is in plain sight, reaching is summit is not an easy task. The easiest way is to take the guided summit tour. Transportation is conveniently provided along with insightful narrative and telescopes for gazing through the clear cold sky to the heavens above.

If you want to drive there on your own, more than likely you are renting a car and that is a disqualifier. You will be able to reach the Onizuka Visitor’s Center at 9,000 feet, but no further. That is because from here the road is a windy, rough, 4x4-only dirt road, and regular rental vehicles are prohibited (even if you rent an SUV). I mention regular rental vehicles - that is because there is one company on the island that rents *special* vehicles for you to traverse the more rugged portions of the island.

Harper Truck Rentals offers 4WD vehicles that can take you to the top of Mauna Kea, as well as into the Waipio Vallley, and other remote 4x4-only destinations on the island. On this particular occasion, we rented a Toyota 4Runner from Harper and drove the saddle road from Hilo. We turned north at the Mauna Kea Access Road (near the 28-mile marker) and drove 6 miles to the Onizuka Visitor's Center. You can reach the visitor's center in any vehicle, however you cannot continue to the summit from here without 4WD. It is a good idea to rest at the visitor's center for about 30 minutes to help acclimate yourself to this high altitude.

We stopped to tour the visitor's center and then continued on up the windy, loose-gravel road to the summit. The month was December and there was fresh snow on the ground, so we drove slowly and with caution. The narrow road winds its way to the top and we could see expansive views of the island below as well as snow and ice that had accumulated on the cinder cone. We finally reached the end of the road. Up here, some of the world's most powerful and important telescopes are operated by many international organizations. Canted off to the side is the tall cinder cone marking the actual Pu'u Wekiu summit of Mauna Kea. Eager to conquer this point, we departed the vehicle and trudged across the ice and snow towards the peak. If you come this far, make sure you dress warmly! Most visitors to Hawaii do not pack for 30-degree, icy weather, but luckily we were dressed for the occasion - jackets, warm layers, and gloves.

As we ascended this snow-capped peak, we hastened our pace in excitement, and forgetting about the above-10,000 foot altitude, out breathing became a little bit too heavy. Consequently, by the time we reached the peak, we felt a shortness of breath and some light-headedness. Any time a human is above 10,000 feet, there is cause for concern as the oxygen content here is significantly lower than at sea level. With less oxygen being inhaled, opportunities for hypoxia and even edema do exist. I quickly recognized these were all symptoms of hypoxia and that I needed to calm down and sit down - or else... So we took a lot of photos (which I subsequently lost and cannot find to this day) and returned to the truck to sit for a moment as I gathered my breath. Of course, we scooped up snow balls along the way and enjoyed the very unusual Hawaii scene.

There is one other way to reach the summit - although it is a physical challenge. That is to hike from the visitor's center to the summit. That means ascending more than four thousand feet in elevation. The hike is a demanding 12 miles, round trip, and will take most or all of the day to accomplish. Details and maps are available at the visitor's center. Someday I plan to do this hike - along with the very rigorous Mauna Loa summit hike. In the meantime, I need to search my house to find those missing photos of the Mauna Kea summit.

Descending back down on the windy gravel road is a challenge. The grade is steep and the road narrow. This is where the tough 4x4 sure comes in handy. Make sure you do not ride the brakes going down or you could end up with a bad situation. If you can, shift to a lower gear, or engage a downhill assist mode (Toyota truck feature). Fog can swoop in at any time on this road, making it even more dangerous than it already is.

Volcano Hike - Halini Pali Trail

It was several years ago that we hiked the Halini Pali Trail in the Volcanoes National Park on the Big Island. This trail has two separate paths, one is about 3.5 miles each way down the slope and the other is 7.5 miles each way down to the ocean. Having done the short trail before, we chose to do the long trail this time. This was several years ago, before the invention of the camelbak and back when things like hydration were not of significant concern... but it should have been!

The trail starts off up at altitude. We parked our car on the Halini Pali Road and started our hike across an old lava flow. Here, a forest has come to life out of the devastating dried lava. As you hike you can see nature making a come back with underbrush, ferns and trees growing out of the harsh lava desert. The trail then leads to the down-sloping side of the volcano - at the edge you can see the magnificent view of the descending slope and ocean below. You can also see the expansive area that you will be hiking - across the wide open lava fields with no shade or cover.

We did this hike inthe middle of the summer and it was certainly hot that day! The trail descends over 2,000 feet to the floor of the Pali and then on to the coast. At this point we started the switch-back trail descending over primarily loose sand and small lava rocks. Footing was a problem as we each slid and fell several times on the descent, even though we moved slowly. An eerie surface-of-the-moon-like setting was waiting for us at the bottom of the slope.

We did not bring a lot with us - a small backpack with only one large jug of water and our snorkeling gear. We had read that there was a small protected inlet at the end of the hike and that you could swim and even snorkel there. With the hot sun beating down on us and exerting ourselves on the hike, we were draining our water supply. Once we reached the bottom of the Pali, the hike winds its way around the dried lava fields, over uneven terrain, with only small piles of lava rocks to mark the trail.

Eventually, the undulating terrain led us to the coast and we could see what seemed like an oasis surrounded by a sea of lava. There were swaying palm trees and green shrubbery surrounding a small inlet. The water was bright blue and very inviting in the heat of this day. We finally reached the cove and donned out snorkeling gear. The lava flow here had created a tide pool - protected from the crashing waves of the ocean by a natural wall of lava rocks, allowing us to snorkel in this calm protected area. The sea life was nice - especially in a place so austere. There wasn't another soul here, and we cherished the solitude that the Big Island can provide.

As we headed back the sea water and activity, along with the higher noon sun caused what seemed like an unquenchable thirst, so we continued to drain the lone water jug that we had brought - now it was down to less than a quarter capacity. I remember having reservations about our dwindling water supply, but we had no where to go but hike back. So we started the long arduous hike back across the rough lava field and then this time UP the slippery switchback trail. Not too far up the ascent, we completely ran out of water. I remember thinking about the 5+ miles to go and how hot it was. It seemed like the minute we ran out of water, the sun turned about ten degrees hotter!

As we continued hiking up, I remember my body slowly draining of energy and slowly being overcome by the heat. All I could think about was water and how thirsty I was and how my lips and throat were getting parched. Now, we had to rest every so often due to the lack of water. The exertion was tough without any water intake. I kept thinking how stupid it was to not bring any more water. Somehow we made it all the way up and across the forested trail back to the car. Even here though, we had no water stored in the car - but we remembered the water fountain at the Thurston Lava Tube. So we drove expeditiously there and all I can remember is grabbing the handle of that water fountain and letting the ice-cold water flow down my dry throat. Each ounce of water that I swallowed brought renewed energy and comfort to me!

Ever since that day, I always pack a lot of water on my hikes and outdoor excursions. I have since then invested in an assortment of hydration gear including the wonderful Camelbak Unbottle, numerous nalgene bottles, and for contingencies, a MiniWorks water purifier. I wanted to recount my story so that others may learn from our mistakes - as well as talk about a wonderful not-so-frequented hike in the national park.

If you do this hike, make sure you bring plenty of water. I would recommend at least one gallon of water per person. Additionally, make sure you bring sunscreen and a hat to protect from the sun. Wear appropriate clothing for the hike - see our volcano hiking tips for more information. Don't forget your snorkeling gear and a camera!

Hike to the Active Lava Flow

We decided to hike once again to watch the active lava flow of Kilauea volcano at the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. We have done this many times now, but wanted to do it once more - plus, we have some new camera equipment that we wanted to try out. As usual, we stopped in to the visitor's center to ask them about the lava conditions and how long the hike would be (the conditions change almost daily). On this occassion it turned out to be about a 3.5 mile hike each way.

We chose to start the hike in the late afternoon to ensure we arrived at the viewing spot prior to sunset - that way we get to see the lava flow as the sky and sun change in the early evening. Also, this way we only have to hike one way in the dark. We were prepared with sturdy hiking boots, lots of water, jackets (it frequently rains here), one flashlight per person, and of course our camera equipment including tripod.

It was not surprising to see so many people unprepared for the long hike - many with open-toed sandals, many without water or even a flashlight. On our return hike from the lava flow back to the car, as we crested a hill, we came across a young girl about 20 years old, alone and crying in the dark. We tried to console her and see if she needed any help - it tourned out that the hike was too long and she did not want to go further, so her friends just left her on this hill in the dark with no flashlight, in the wind with a light rain beginning to fall! At this point she was about 1.75 miles from the car and the same distance to the lava flow - too far to walk alone in the dark with no light. The last group of hikers we saw were starting their hike at 8:00PM - which puts them back at the start somewhere around 1:00AM! Be smart when you hike in Hawaii - nature can be unforgiving.

The hike was definitely worth it - it was a surreal setting with the crowd silent in the dark watching the dramatic lava flow as the sun set in the background. The bright flashes of lava entering the ocean, and the hard-hitting waves pounding the shore mesmerized you. We got back to our car at about 9:00PM and we were starving! I had left me dinner in the car not thinking that I would be hungry long before this - so we chowed down on some stir-fried noodles that we had bought earlier and then drove back to Hilo for the night.