Diving with the Turtles at Honaunau

I recently went SCUBA Diving with the Hawaiian Green Sea Turtles at Honaunau Bay (Place of Refuge), South Kona on the Big Island. This is one of my favorite places to dive on the Big Island and offers an expansive reef in relatively shallow water (that means a lot of bottom time!) The quality of the reef is excellent with a variety of different types and colors of mature coral that stretches out and around the bay. The visibility is usually typical Kona (excellent) - although on this particular stormy day it wasn't its usual 100' of clarity. Also, one added bonus - you are pretty much guaranteed to swim with some turtles!

This spot is popular with snorkelers too (if they can figure out the directions). The area closest to shore is shallow and offers exceptional snorkeling. The entry point is right off of a lava rock shelf. As popular a site as this is - if no one was in the water you would probably drive right by as it is a non-descript bend in the road.

Kayak to Makalawena Beach

This morning we put in our Kayaks at Kua Bay (Maniniowali Beach) right as the park opened up at 9:00 AM. On board we had our snorkeling gear, our waterproof cameras and a cooler with kalua pig sandwiches inside. Our goal was to kayak to Makalawena Beach - a secluded and austere beach that is difficult to access. We talked about attempting this a while ago in a previous blog post but were unsuccessful - today we were determined to do it! Luckily, the weather smiled upon us with calm seas and sunshine. So, we loaded our kayak and carried it down over the rocks from the pavement to the bleached-white sandy beach below and started paddling.

Ahead and to the north there was already a dive boat anchored atop the reef nearby and our curiosity almost pulled us in that direction to investigate the diving conditions there - but we were focused on our goal of reaching Makalawena (many say this is the prettiest beach on the island...) We started paddling to the south and the scenery was spectacular. The waters of Kua Bay are many different shades of blue - from emerald to a light and bright blue, to a darker navy blue where the reef is below. We continued and passed the large mound of a hill to our left and noticed for the first time a row of houses near its base - I wonder, more vacation rentals - or perhaps exclusive beach bungalows for the rich and famous?

As we kept paddling beyond this cove, we began to see the strand of trees that borders the northern end of Makalawena and we knew we were not far. As we paddled, the waters were so clear that we could make out glimpses of the vast reef below us. On several occassions, I lowered myself into the water with a mask and snorkel to marvel at the underwater topography and corals - the reef was beautiful. By now, we could make out a glimpse of thegently sloping dunes at Makalawena. The sand there is a special shade of white and could be seen shining in the distance, surrounded by lava rocks and underbriush. As we stared at the beach we were dissappointed by seeing a few people already on the beach - we were hoping to be the only ones there...

As we approached the northen edge of the beach, we notice a very shallow reef shelf below us with vibrant yellow and blue hued colors. We decided to anchor the kayak and snorkel the reef below us. We dropped our anchor on a patch of sand at the bottom and saw a thriving reef below us in about 20 feet of water. We spent a short while snorkeling and free diving above the reef. Then we finally decided it was time to paddle in to shore - at Makalawena!

We navigated the approach avoiding lava rocks and a shallow reef and were pushed by surging waves the final distance onto the immacculate beach - we were finally there! The beach was better than I imagined and better than any piuctures could capture. The sand was perfect - soft, fine, and firm under our bare feet. The azure waters shined and the white sand contrasted starkly next to the dried lava rocks and surrounding green shrubbery. The waves lapped on shore on the beach and pounded the lava rocks sending sea spray into the air. Makalawena is actually three beach crescents located side by side to each other - we had landed on the center crescent. We spent some time exploring and photographing the beach and eventually sat on the lava rocks to enjoy our sandwiches before paddling back to Kua Bay. It was a wonderful day! Right now, my legs ache a bit because I forgot to add sunblock to them and they are a bit sun burnt...

Snorkeling at Pawai Bay

I had heard about Pawai Bay while searching the internet for snorkeling locations in Kona. I have snorkeled most of the Big Island and am constantly searching for new places to snorkel and SCUBA dive. I read that charter boats take snorkelers to Pawai Bay and decided I wanted to go and check it out. I found out that although this bay is somewhat secluded you can access it by a trail leading from the north end of the Old Kona Airport Beach Park. Apparently, Pawai Bay is located about two coves to the north of the Old Kona Airport. However, I wanted to SCUBA dive at Pawai - so hiking the trail with all my gear was out of the question.

So I came up with the idea of Kayaking to Pawai Bay from Kailua Bay. At first I thought that this might be overly ambitous, but after looking at my GPS and a few maps, I saw that it would be about a 1.5 mile kayak trip (each way). By taking a kayak, we could stow all of our dive gear on board and also enjoy the journey.

So a couple of friends and I started the trip - we paddled right off of the beach at the King Kamehameha Hotel in Kailua-Kona. Although, there were moderate swells in the ocean, it took us less than one hour to get beyond the Old Airport Beach Park. Then we realized that the waves were crashing on the lava rocks at the shore and we would need to be very careful as we neared shore. Our original plan was to anchor the boat - dropping anchor onto the sandy bottom (and avoid damaging any corals). We brought our anchor with us and as I swam in the water searching for a good place to anchor, I spotted the buoy that the tour boats use to moor and we tied up the this buoy. It was a great find - we were only about 25 yards from shore and right over the reef that we could see through the clear waters below. As we prepared to enter the water, we saw a lone snorkeler pass by our kayaks - she must have come from shore where you can enter the water at the small sandy beach at the edge of the cove.

We dropped in and two of us SCUBA dived as the third person snorkeled. The reef here was expansive, vibrantly alive, and consumed by colorful corals. As I descended on my dive, I could see many large schools of fish in and around us and the reef. There were large schools of curious Goat Fish meandering near us and pockets of Squirrel Fish bobbing with their large eyes protruding. The top of the reef was in about 20-25 feet of water and it descended to beyond 65 feet deep. The water was a warm 78 degrees and about 70 feet of visibility - all in all excellent conditions! This coral reef really reminded me of the dense reef at Captain Cook, one of my favorites on the Island. As we got back in the kayaks and secured our gear, one of my buddies got sea sick because the swells had increased and the chop was getting rough. So we decided to paddle back to Kailua Bay. We only dived one small portion of the reef here at Pawai Bay - and I look forward to coming back to take a look at the rest of it.

Nice Beaches Near Kailua-Kona

The many tourists that stay in the glitzy Kohala Resorts (such as the Mauna Lani, Waikoloa, Mauna Kea, etc.) will probably miss out on some really nice beaches right at the edge of the town of Kailua-Kona. Several of our favorite beaches are located right on Ali'i Drive, at the southern edge of Kailua-Kona. Magic Sands Beach (Laa Loa Beach) and Kahalu'u Beach Park are two must-visit beaches.

Magic Sands Beach Park is a small strip of white sand with sparkling waters. The main attraction here are the fantastic waves that make for some great body-boarding or body-surfing. The waves can be severe in the winter, so keep an eye out for the rogue wave that can wreck havoc! This beach is usually packed with beach goers and spectators watching the wave-riders.

Kahalu'u Beach Park is another great beach, located just south of Magic Sands. The main attraction here is not for what's on land, but for the wonderful under-sea life. You have the unique opportunity to see and swim with the Hawaiian Green Sea Turtle here at Kahaluu. Although an endangered species, you can see them basking in the sun on the beach and swimming in the shallow waters here. Make sure you bring your snorkel gear - you will enjoy the abundance of tropical fish swimming nearby as well as the vibrant coral reef. The waters are normally quite calm - this is a perfect beach for the whole family.

Hike the Pololu Valley

We revisited the Pololu Valley and hiked down to the bottom once more. Previously, earthquake damage had closed the Pololu Valley trail, but it is once again open - and it is a hike that you must do! The scenery is breath-taking with the rough ocean waves crashing against the sea cliffs and black sand beach on one side, and the densely forrested valley on the other. Like all things on the Big Island, the Pololu Valley is diverse and fertile. From this photo, you can see the series of gorges and valleys from the Pololu Valley (foreground) leading to the Honokane Nui, and eventually to the Waimanu Valley and ending up in the Waipio Valley. We saw swimmers braving the rough waters and a variety of hikers from young kids to older enthusiasts. The hike is an easy one, about 25-minutes from the parking lot at the lookout. Drive north from Kona and take Highway 270 to the end and park at the overlook.

Kiholo Bay, Kona

I finally found the trail that leads you from Highway 19 to Kiholo Bay. Kiholo Bay is like an oasis surrounded by the barren Kona lava fields and twisted brush and trees. There is a black sand beach on one end and a beautiful tree-lined inlet on the other end. There are various clear-water ponds brimming with fish in and around the bay. You can see Kiholo Bay from the scenic overlook at mile-marker 82 on Highway 19. It's about a one-mile hike from the highway to Kiholo Bay. It wasn't as easy as I thought to find the trail from the parking area on Highway 19 (about miles north of the overlook). I had the parking area coordinates in my GPS (N19.8520, W155.9133), but I still had to search for the faint trail (N19.5104, W155.5449). Then it was fairly easy following the trail towards the ocean. There is a family of wild goats that lives in the brush alongside the trail - keep an eye out for them - I was able to photograph the adult, adolescent and even two of the young "kids". Continuing on the trail you will eventually pass a twisted dried-out trees off to the right of the trail - the trees and underbrush are so dense that taking a short-cut through them proved impossible. The day was pretty hot and I was glad I brought my water bottle with me! I continued past a gated entrance and eventually passed many palm trees a few shallow ponds in the shady beneath the trees, and finally I started to see sand as I approached the shore. I was excited - for the many many times I had spotted this little oasis from the highway, I never knew how to get to this place. I was finally here!